Tanned leather: how it is processed
The expression "tanned leather" describes leather that has undergone a special treatment, which is essential for processing and preserving this raw material.
The processing takes place in a significantly different way based on two factors: the characteristics of the original leather and the type of product to be made with tanned leather.
In any case, the tanning process is essential to ensure the durability of the leather and to give the material the characteristics suitable for processing and make it perfect for creating accessories and other objects of daily use, used in the world of fashion and in many other sectors.
The construction of the Classic Dan
The construction of a shoe is a long and laborious process, which develops with the succession of numerous operations carried out by the hands of expert craftsmen.
Once the creative and design phase is over, the first operation is the cutting of the leather, to create the different parts of the upper and lining of the shoe. The tool used to cut the various parts of the upper and their linings is called a cutting die.
Stitching, Skiving and Upper Assembly
First of all, after cutting all the components of the shoe, we move on to their assembly, after which the stitching takes place, i.e. the phase in which all the components are sewn and glued together with the lining, various reinforcements, etc.
The stitching part is nothing more than the assembling of all the components of the upper of the shoe sewn and joined together. At the same time as stitching, skiving also takes place. Skiving is useful for smoothing the thickness of the edges and avoiding too thick joints.
Stitching and skiving are carried out by qualified personnel following all the instructions received from the design of the footwear.
To complete the stitching phase of the moccasin, you need to apply the tongue/vamp. It is then necessary to proceed with the assembly of the semi finished upper to the last, after which we proceed with the hand stitching of the mask to the upper. A thread is used whose elements, unlike those of the thread used for machine sewing, are simply twisted and not braided.
On leather shoes, the welt is fixed at the point of union between the sole and the upper. The "welt" is a thin strip of rubber or leather. It has both technical and aesthetic functions and serves as a reinforcement of the seams that weld the upper, insole and sole.
Steel shanks are small components for footwear that slip into the insoles and allow the insole to be stiffened where needed to accompany the movement of the foot and thus keep the shoes more resistant over time.
Leather Sole and Finishing
Sole leather is the thickest and strongest material in the tanning industry and is used to make the soles of boots and shoes. Sole leather is made from vegetable-tanned leathers, usually rumps, processed in a special way to make them the hardest type of leather that exists. The leather has characteristics of resistance and above all of high hygiene. It is known, for example, that leather shoes help perspiration and thus prevent the development of mold and other skin and foot diseases resulting from the stagnation of moisture inside the shoe.
After the preparation of the leather sole, we move on to the phase of application of the same to the upper. In our case, this operation is done by joining the sole to the upper by half-stitching carried out with a column sewing machine.
Finishing is the department that serves to improve the aesthetic appearance of the shoe. It consists of cleaning the shoe by removing excess thread, any glue "whiskers" and any other impurities. Then the leather heel is applied to complete the last operation before packaging.
In this phase, the "shoe filler" is inserted into the shoes, which allows the product to maintain its shape during transport. Next, the shoes are placed inside the box and separated by tissue paper. Finally, the "Barcode" label is applied to the box, which allows store operators to know "the model, size and color of the product contained in it.
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