The Boat Shoe
Written by Valentina Bellantone
As its name would suggest, the boat shoe has its origins in the marine world. However, despite originally being designed for sailors, this is a shoe that has firmly cemented its position as a quintessential summer essential, adored for its lightweight yet sturdy feel and easy-to-wear, relaxed aesthetic.
A Sailor and his dog
Now a mainstay on the casual clothing scene, the boat shoe can in fact be traced all the way back to a sailor and his seafaring dog, frustrated by his inability to maintain a firm grip on the slippery deck of his boat. There simply wasn’t a shoe on the market that did the job: rubber would slip on wet floor, whilst rope would slip on dry floor, and going barefoot frequently led to broken bones. However, it turned out that our four-legged friends had the answer all along: it was their grooved paws that provided the inspiration for the zig-zagged rubber sole we’re all familiar with, creating a surface with “squeegee suction action” that would “stick like a barnacle”. A simple alteration, but one that would revolutionise the sailing footwear landscape forever.
When this innovative shoe was first released, it wasn’t in the form of the iconic Docksides we know and love today. Firstly, the sole was originally black, leaving sailors less than impressed when they inevitably left black scuff marks all over the deck. Meanwhile, the upper was crafted from white or blue canvas. It wasn’t until 1937 that the first example of the modern boat shoe made its debut appearance, newly improved with a low-cut tanned leather upper resistant to the harsh salt-air climate and a non-marking white sole. Add in some classic apron stitching and a 360-degree raw-cut leather lacing system, and you’ve got the iconic preppy style forever associated with a polo shirt and a pair of white ankle socks.
From the deck to the campus
In 1939, the boat shoe’s success snowballed when the US Navy caught on to its unique benefits. A contract was signed, and the once humble style became the official footwear of the US Navy.
Fast forward to the 1960s and the boat shoe began broadening its horizons, evolving from a purely functional creation into a style icon that could hold its own on the elite fashion scene. Because of its origins, simply being seen in one would imply ownership of a boat, and the boat shoe soon found popularity on prestigious American college campuses, establishing itself as a symbol of class, wealth and academic success. In 1970, the Sebago Docksides stormed the scene and propelled the marine-born style’s adulation to even greater heights with the brand’s cult appeal, becoming a cornerstone of the Ivy League uniform and making its way into The Official Preppy Handbook in 1980.
Sebago Docksides: a cult icon
There’s no doubt that Sebago’s iconic Docksides collection played an emblematic role in the triumph of the boat shoe. Drawing on its American heritage, unwavering connection with the ocean, and meticulous craftsmanship, Sebago successfully filled a clear niche in the market: a boat shoe that was of course functional, yet was also hand-stitched from genuine leather with the same exceptional attention to detail that had always set the brand aside from the rest. A shoe that evolved into a whole family of enduring classics, all featuring the water-repellent construction and siped sole that once revolutionised the sailing landscape, yet with two distinctive Sebago details.
The first is a box stitch at the extremities of the apron to anchor the handiwork of Sebago’s expert craftsmen. The second is the heel seam: an old Colonial stitch that neatly and securely joins the heel and upper whilst providing additional protection. All rounded off with non-corrosive metal eyelets.
At the centre of the Docksides range is the iconic Portland shoe, providing the starting point for a stylistic journey that sees the classic design reworked season after season in new colourways and materials to reflect Sebago’s DNA, whilst keeping a keen eye on modern trends. Sebago consistently pushes the boundaries to create new daring iterations for both him and her, from high-top to mule, revisited in waxed, hammered and suede leather in a rainbow of unexpected shades that stray from the conventional tan, dark brown and navy.
As well as being a failsafe companion for seafarers all over the world, the Sebago Docksides collection has surpassed generations and transcended all sorts of fashion trends to remain an everyday staple and the anchor of any casual wardrobe, proving itself to be just as much at home on the city streets as it is on deck.
Our iconic boat shoes have even gained traction on the celebrity scene for their iconic silhouette, exceptional comfort and effortless style, worn by the likes of Pharrell Williams, Steve McQueen, Paul Newman and even Kate Middleton, who’s regularly seen out and about in a pair of skinny jeans and her trusty Sebago Docksides.
Loved by sailors, worn by everyone.
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