AS MAINE AS BLUEBERRY PIE
The official State fruit of Maine has never tasted better
By Patrick F. Albertson
Q&A with Stacy Begin
Owner & Head BakerTwo Fat Cats BakeryPortland, ME
Throughout the rocky fields, stony hills, and wild barrens of Maine, the native low-bush blueberries that fruit every summer yield the largest crop of wild blueberries in the United States. They've been baked, brewed, jammed, simmered, stewed, and infused into just about every food you can imagine in Maine—with varying degrees of success. There is, however, one undeniable favorite though that cuts through the blueberry marketing noise, a dessert that has graced Maine tables for centuries in late July and early August when the berries are at their ripest, freshest and juiciest.
There’s nothing more fundamentally Maine than a fresh, warm, Maine Blueberry pie. Founded in 2005, Two Fat Cats is a Maine bakery that makes some of the state’s best pies and pastries from scratch using local ingredients, time-honored traditions, and rustic American know-how. We spoke with owner and head Baker Stacy Begin about this Maine staple and asked if she’d share her recipe.
The humble blueberry has long been associated with Maine as an ingredient and in flavoring. Do you think it’s overhyped or does it really deserve its reputation?
I think it totally deserves its reputation! Even though we are known for our pies, I don't eat pie every day which means blueberry pie is a treat for me. We can become blaise about it after a while " Oh, it's just a blueberry pie. Nothing fancy." But every time I eat a slice, I think " Wow! I forgot how fabulously good this is!" Wild Maine Blueberry pie never disappoints. Wild Maine Blueberries are really special, making the pie really special too.
Where did you grow up and was baking a part of your upbringing?
I grew up in Waterville, Maine and cooking and baking were a part of everyday life. I remember my grandmother and aunts baking often—especially at the holidays. My family has been in Northern and Central Maine for generations and I definitely feel the connection to the woods and waters of Maine, to the landscape, to Maine's way of life. I think Two Fat Cats reflects my close relationship to the state. We really try to highlight Maine ingredients and recipes and honor those bakers—both home bakers and bakery workers—who came before us. There's deep respect for the traditions and history of New England baking.
What is it about pies, especially sweet, fruit filled pies that bring people a warm wave of Americana?
Pies immigrated to America and with every wave and each generation, each new group brought their own version of pies to their new country. Pies are woven into the cultural fabric here, so it's a reminder of home, isn't it? I think pies now are really associated with holidays and family get-togethers—again a symbolism of home and the comfort and love that exists there. Pie is also a great equalizer—everyone loves a slice of pie with ice cream! You can’t go wrong with that.
Is there a secret to making the perfect blueberry pie?
There are some "open" secrets to making the perfect blueberry pie: First, use the best ingredients you can find. Second, take your time. Each component—fruit, pie dough, dry mix—needs your attention. Pie is simple, but temperamental. Third, no shortcuts! Sticking with the process is important in pie making. Lastly, oven temperature matters. An oven that is too cool produces a mediocre pie.
RECEPIE
Two Fat Cats Wild Maine Crumble Top Blueberry Pie
Ingredients for the Crumble:
• ¼ cup brown sugar
• 3 cups old fashioned oats
• ½ tsp salt
• 1/2 tsp cinnamon
• 3 oz unsalted butter, melted and cooled
Ingredients for the Maine Wild Blueberry filling:
• 24 oz Maine Wild Blueberries, fresh or frozen (if frozen, do not thaw)
• 4.5 oz sugar
• 1oz tapioca starch
• ½ tsp cinnamon
• 1/8 tsp salt
• ½ tsp lemon zest
• 1 pie shell in a pie tin, unbaked (store bought or homemade)
To make the filling: Preheat the oven to 375. Combine all the blueberry filling ingredients together and let sit while making the crumble.
To make the crumble: Combine the brown sugar, oats, salt and cinnamon in a bowl. Add the melted butter and combine until blended and some of the topping is clumpy.
To assemble and bake the pie: Put the pie shell in its tin onto a baking sheet. Add the filling to the pie shell and make sure the filling is evenly distributed. Pile the topping on to the filling making sure that the topping covers the filling to the edges. Place in the pre-heated oven and bake for 50-60 minutes until the filling is bubbly and slightly thickened. If the edges of the pie crust begin to brown too much while baking, cover the edges with tinfoil and continue to bake until filling has thickened slightly.
Allow the pie to cool! This may take an hour or two. During the cooling period, the filling will gel and the flavors meld together.
Enjoy with whipped cream, ice cream or just plain.
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