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Glossary
Abrasion Resistance
The degree to which a material is able to withstand surface wear, rubbing and other forces.
Achilles Tendon
The heavy tendon attached to the oscalsis or heel bone. Acts as a lever in raising the foot off the ground.
Anatomic
Relating or conforming to the physical structure of the body. As applied to shoes, it refers to the natural shape of the foot.
Arch
The bony framework of the foot extending from the heel forward to the toes and sustained by the muscles and ligaments in the form of an arch. Also, the bottom curve of a shoe last from heel to ball.
Arch Support
A device or orthotic of leather, metal or other material shaped to the counter of the foot's arch. Inserted or built into a shoe to support the arch.
Artificial Leather
A manufactured material, usually an impregnated and coated material, finished to resemble leather.
Back Seam
The posterior seam joining the quarters of the uppers.
Backing
A piece of fabric laminated to leather or other fabric to make the leather or shoe fabric stronger and firmer.
Ball
The fleshy part of the foot just back of the toes or the corresponding part of the last. It is the widest part of the sole.
Balmoral Shoe (Bal)
A shoe construction featuring a laced "V"-shaped panel across the foot.
Bellows Tongue
A broad folding tongue stitched to the shoe quarter on either side. Used chiefly for work and sport shoes to prevent water and snow from penetrating to the foot at the front opening of the shoe.
Biomechanics
The science that examines the internal and external forces acting on a human body, more specifically their effect on stress and strain on body tissues and their production of motion.
Blucher
A shoe construction featuring two side flaps of material that are joined across the foot with lacing.
Break
The wrinkle formed in the camp of a shoe across the ball when the shoe is flexed in wear. A properly fitted shoe will break so that the wrinkle is neither noticeable nor uncomfortable. An improperly fitted shoe may have a break that is both noticeable and irritating to the foot.
Breathability
The ability of the upper to transpire, thereby ventilating the foot.
Brogue
A heavy, oxford-style shoe featuring pinked and perforated detailing.
Bunion
An inflammatory swelling at the base of the great toe, frequently leading to permanent enlargement of the toe joint.
Burnishing
Polishing to secure a bright, glossy finish. In shoemaking, the sole edges and heels are waxed and burnished.
Canvas
A strong, coarse cloth of cotton, flax, hemp or other fibers. Popular for shoe uppers, beach and bathing footwear and certain kinds of shoe reinforcements.
Chukka
An ankle high blucher boot pattern with 2 or 3 eyelets or a strap with buckle.
Closure
A method of enclosing, binding or confining, i.e. laces, straps, zipper.
Cobbler
A repairer or maker of shoes.
Collar
A narrow strip of leather stitched around the top of a shoe for ornamental effect. A cuff is similar to a collar but usually wider.
Counter
A reinforcement placed between the exterior and lining at the back of the shoe to prevent the upper from collapsing and the heel moving. Also known as a stiffener.
Delamination
Tendency of a fabric to be pulled apart (layer separation) by normal surface forces or shear tensions.
Denier
A weight per unit length measure of an linear material. Denier is a direct numbering system for which the low numbers represent the finer sizes and the higher numbers the coarser sizes.
Detailing
Refers to our planning special refinements of a shoe, such as fine or fancy stitching.
D-Rings
Lacing rings (for speed lacing).
Dri-lex®
A dual layered configuration composed of Hydrofil, a moisture absorbing nylon fiber as an underlayer, and a moisture resisting outer layer knitted together.
Embossing
Depressing a specific pattern in leather or fabrics.
Espadrille
A shoe or sandal style that has a woven rope or similar material covering the wedge or sole.
EVA (Ethylene Vinyl Acetate)
A durable, flexible copolymer used for outsoles, midsoles and heel wedges.
Fiberboard
A compression material in sheet form, made from vegetable fibers. Used for counters, insoles, midsoles and heel lifts.
Forefoot
The area of foot between the ball and the toes.
Foxing
A shoe component which reinforces or covers the shoe at a point of particular wear or stress, such as the heel area or the joint between sole and upper.
Gaiter
An ankle-high shoe with elastic gore in the sides.
Goodyear Welt®
A shoe construction in which the upper and sole of the shoe are stitched together, resulting in greater durability. The resulting seam is visible and runs around the outside of the shoe, where the upper and outsole meet.
Gore
An elastic panel stitched into either side of a shoe's vamp in order to make it more comfortable and easier to put on and take off.
Gusset
A section of leather or elastic inserted in the tongue or as a sidepiece to give additional room when the foot is being placed in the shoe.
Heel Strike
Posterior heel contact against the treading surface.
Hydrophilic
Having an affinity to water and is generally referred to as a type of breathable coating system and alternate to microporous.
Insole
A layer of material (leather, cellulose, etc.) shaped to the bottom of the last, sandwiched between the outsole and the sole of the foot. The shoe's structural anchor to which the upper, counter, linings, box toes, etc. are attached.
Instep
The top part of the arch of a foot over the metatarsal bones from back of the toes to the ankle. Also the corresponding part of a last or shoe.
Jodhpur Boots
A low-cut boot used primarily for equestrian activities. May be laced or a twin gore pull-on style.
Kidskin
A soft, porous leather created from the hide of young goats.
Kiltie
A decorative, fringed tongue over the vamp of a shoe.
Last
A piece of wood, metal or synthetic material roughly following the shape of the foot and acting as a form on which the shoe is made.
Lateral
The outside area of the foot.
Lining
The inside layer of a shoe upper. Made of fabric, leather or other material.
Loafer
A slip-on shoe, completely without fasteners.
Mary Jane
The style of low heeled shoe with a strap across the instep. The strap can be attached with elastic or a buckle, making it easy to slip on and off.
Medial
Inside area of the foot.
Metatarsals
The long bones of the foot between the toes and ankle.
Moccasin
A shoe in which the bottom is a single piece of leather, stitched around a last. The vamp is usually attached by whip stitching to the bottom of the shoe so it encloses the foot. Also known as Genuine Moc construction.
Monk Strap
A closed shoe, usually a blucher pattern, with a wide strap across the instep that buckles at the side. Also known as a monk strap.
Nap
The woolly or fuzzy surface finish of some fabrics and some leathers such as suede and side leather.
NSRA (National Shoe Retailers Association)
The association whose members are primarily independent retailers and small to medium chain stores and specialty stores.
NSTA (National Shoe Traveler's Association)
The association whose members are traveling salesmen handling shoes and related products on the wholesale and retail levels.
Negative Heel
The heel whose plan is lower than the ball of the foot or shoe.
Neoprene
An elastomer, neoprene is widely used in footwear for outsoles, heels and welting, to impregnate cellulose fibers for insoles and counters, and as an adhesive.
Nubuck
Lightweight, supple leather used on the upper of the shoe. Buffed to a suede-like appearance.
Oiling Off
Coating the surface of leather with oil.
Orthopedic Devices
Any device of leather, metal or other material included in the construction of a shoe, or inserted in a shoe to prevent or correct foot defects and deformities.
Orthotic
Molded insert in a shoe that provides support at the arch, heel or ball of the foot.
Outsole
The outermost sole of a shoe, the surface of which is exposed to wear.
Overlay
A piece of contrasting or harmonizing leather or other material attached to the shoe upper for decorative purposes.
Oxford
A traditional term describing a low shoe laced or tied over the instep.
Patent Leather
A well-varnished leather that has a shiny appearance. Patent leather is typically created from cattle hide.
Penny-Loafer
A slip-on style shoe with a slit over the instep where a penny traditionally was placed for good luck.
Perforate
To decorate an upper with a series of regularly spaced holes made either one after another by a perforation machine or all together by a perforating die.
Planter Arch
The main longitudinal arch of the foot.
Plate
A flat piece of material (steel, aluminum, leather or plastic) molded to form an arch support.
Podiatry
The branch of medicine that specializes in the care of the foot in health and illness. Sometimes known as "chiropody."
Polyurethane (PU)
A synthetic material frequently used as an alternative to leather in the manufacturing of footwear. PU is light, flexible and durable. Widely used for outsole heel lifts and as a finish for patent leathers.
PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride)
A thermoplastic flexible material widely used for unit soles or direct molded outsoles.
Pronation
An outward rotation or twisting of the heel bone accompanied by a depression and inward falling of the long inner arch and an abduction/eversion of the forefoot. A mild degree of this is normal on weight bearing.
Safety Toe
A box toe made of a rigid material, usually a special high-grade steel or plastic. When inserted in a boot or shoe, prevents crushing, breaking, or severing of toes, by heavy blows or falling weights.
Shank
Part of the sole, between the heel and the ball or tread. Also, a long piece of wood, leather, steel, or plastic placed between insole and sole intended to support the shank area of the shoe and the arch of the foot.
Shearling
Sheepskin or lambskin with the wool still attached. Used often as a lining for shoes and boots.
Sheepskin
Skin from sheep, either with or without the wool still attached.
Sipes
A specific, razor-cut pattern in the outsoles of deck shoes that help to disperse water and prevent slipping.
Sole
The bottom piece of pieces of leather or other material of footwear. When used as a collective term, it includes the complete bottom part of the shoe, except the heel.
Speed Lacing
A lacing method that uses D-rings.
Stay
One of several reinforcing parts of the shoe upper or lining.
Supination
The opposite of Pronation. It describes the position of the foot when it's pointed up. The inner side is tilted higher than the outer side. It also describes the process by which the weight is shifted from the inner side of the foot to the outer side. When the foot pushes off the ground on its way up, weight is mostly on the big tow (the inner side of the foot).
Tanning
Process of curing animal or reptile hides and skins into leather.
Tap
The attachment of a leather or metal partial sole over the existing sole of a shoe.
Throat
The central part of a shoe vamp opening where it is seamed to the front of the quarter. The entrance of the shoe.
Toe Box
Reinforcement used to retain the original contour of the toe and guard against trauma or abrasion.
Toe Spring
In a last or shoe, the distance or space between the ground level and the surface of the sole at the toe top. Toe spring varies with the height of the heel and the thickness of the sole and is important to the walking ease.
Tongue
Part of the upper, or a section fixed to the upper, which extends from the rear edge of the vamp, lying under the lacing or straps of a shoe. Protects the instep of the foot.
TPR
A thermoplastic rubber material commonly used to produce outsoles.
Unit Sole
A molded sole in which sole and heel are molded as a single unit in pre-determined sizes.
Upper
The upper part of a shoe, not including the sole. May be made from leather, fabric or synthetics. All of the upper parts of a shoe stitched together and ready for lasting and bottoming.
Vamp
The lower forward part of a shoe upper which is attached to the sole or welting; the part of the upper which covers the forepart of the foot.
Ventilated Shoe
Common term for any shoe that has been punched, perforated or cut out extensively to admit air to the foot.
Vibram®
A type of durable, non-slip, outsole typically found on hiking boots. Vibram® is a registered trademark of Vibram® S.P.A.
Vulcanized Rubber
Rubber that has been converted from its crude state to one of durability and strength.
Water Repellant
Shoes treated so that they will shed water.
Water Resistance
The characteristic of a material to resist wetting and penetration by water.
Waterproof
Shoes treated so that water cannot penetrate.
Wear Test
Method of evaluating the durability of material and proper fit through test use.
Welt
A strip of leather or synthetic material between the upper and the sole to which each part is in turn attached. A "mock welt" is sometimes stitched around the upper for ornamental purposes.
Wicking
The transmission of a gas or liquid along fibers due to a pressure differential or capillary action. Commonly attributed to lining performance.
Width
The width of a shoe is typically measured in letters (AAA, AA, A, B, C, D, E, EEE, EEEE) and refers to the width of the shoe last as measured at the ball of the foot. Widths are defined in one-sixths of an inch.
Wing Tip
A wing-shaped toe cap.